In Another Life, I lived in Napa

Whether it's golden mustard fields in February, the heat of midsummer, or the harvest's first crush, there are few places in California as beautiful as Napa. The food is as wonderful as the celebrated wines, and the valley itself is lovely enough to put you into a daydreaming mood. There are many, many places to try -- the suggestions below are simply a few personal favorites. Enjoy!

West Side Wineries:

• V. Sattui - this winery is near Rutherford on the west side of the valley. Their tastings are free and they have a good deli and picnic area. Their wines are not the most elegant, but there are many that I like and they're generous with their tastings. I especially like their dessert wines and Rieslings. http://www.vsattui.com/
• Niebaum-Coppala - This is Francis Ford Coppola's winery and was formerly the Inglenook winery, I believe. They charge for their tastings, but you get to keep the glass, which is etched with their crest. The grounds are nice and they have some fun memorabilia from Coppola's movies. I also really like their stone-ground mustards in the gift shop. http://www.niebaum-coppola.com/site.php
• Peju-Province - This winery is just north of Yountville on the west side. They have a really good French Columbard called "Carnival" that my whole family likes. Depending upon how busy they are, they do a pretty good job with their tastings and will sometimes give you chocolate with the reds or allow you to see the barrel room. I think that tastings are $5. Also important to note - Peju is one of the few wineries that offers tastings until 6pm daily. http://www.peju.com/

East Side (Stag's Leap) Wineries

• Rombauer - this is on the northeast side of the Napa Valley. Their tastings are free and they have fabulous Chardonnay and several excellent Zins. I reallly like their wine - it would be worth it to pay for the tasting, but you don't have to. It's also run by the family who wrote Joy of Cooking. Their materials say that you have to make an appointment; you can easily call and do so, but I've also never had any problem just showing up on a weekend to taste. They don't check for reservations. http://www.rombauervineyards.com/
• Duckhorn - Tastings are a little pricey at $10 for three wines, or $15 for five. However, the pours are more like a wine flight than a tasting, and they're served in a very nice setting -- seated tables with gourmet crackers, high ceilings, and a view over the vineyard. The winery is housed in a restored farmhouse and is more like visiting a lovely private home. Duckhorn is most famous for its Merlot, which was served at the Clinton White House, but all of the wines we tasted were good. In addition, Duckhorn generally pours wines that are $50/bottle and up, making the tasting fees even more reasonable. http://www.duckhornvineyards.com/
• Mumm - Mumm is a little more on the commercial side, but still a fun place to taste. Their champagne is very drinkable and affordable, and you can taste uncommon varieties at the winery that aren't readily available in grocery stores. I particulary liked the Cuvee M Red. They have a lovely patio area with seated tasting tables and a nice view out over the valley. Hourly tours are also available, should the mood strike you. http://mummnapa.com/
  

Places to eat:

1. Mustards - on the Bay Area top 100 list year after year, but casual enough that you can go in jeans for lunch or dinner. They have the best lemon-lime pie that I have ever tasted and I have never had a bad meal here. It's eclectic California cuisine with fresh, local ingredients. Very yummy and probably my most consistent favorite in Napa.
2. Rutherford Grill - Right near the turn-off for Niebaum, this is a leather-booth and woodsmoke kind of place that specializes in good steaks and BBQ, but like most good Bay Area restaurants does a good job with fish and salads, etc. Good for lunch or casual but very good dinner. They also have patio seating.
3. The California Culinary Academy - I have only eaten here once, but I had one of the best pasta dishes ever - silk handkerchief pasta with wild mushrooms - yum! Also they make fabulous Bellini's with real peach puree. They have a tasting menu prepared by the students. The menu is not very big and portions are modest but the food is always interesting and the setting is really nice. CIA also has a fun gift shop for cooking junkies.
4. Tra Vigne – Courtyard seating and lovely Italian meals made with local ingredients are the hallmarks of Tra Vigne. The proximity to downtown St. Helena is also nice for whiling away an afternoon or summer evening.
5. Pino Blanc – Pricey, but elegant French bistro fair is offered here. The inside is lovely, though they don’t make use of Napa’s lovely outdoor setting and views. The meal we had here was good, but somewhat expensive. I would go to the other restaurants on this list first.

Places to shop:

1. Napa Premium Outlets – Exit at First Street in Napa. Highlights are Coach, Nine West, BCBG, Max Studio, Kenneth Cole, Ann Taylor and Barney’s (which is unique in Northern CA). www.premiumoutlets.com/napa/
2. Downtown St. Helena – There are quite a few nice boutiques in downtown St. Helena. It’s a great place to stop and putter for a while or have a quick bite to eat.

Winery Maps: http://www.napavintners.com