Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Qutub Minar and Humayun's Tomb

On Sunday, Heather and I repented for our shopping spree by doing some sightseeing in Delhi. Delhi is really a lovely city in many ways. There are long tree-lined streets and beautiful monuments and cultural sites right in the city proper. After working out at our very nice gym in Gurgaon, we set out to see two of the most notable sites, Qutub Minar, which is a mosque and minaret, and Humayun's Tomb.

At Qutub Minar, we were approached by a guide who offered to show us around the site for 200 Rupees (~$5). We decided this was a pretty good deal, and proceeded to have very enjoyable tour with A.G., who claimed to have been trained as an archaeologist. The complex consists of the minaret, a mosque and madrasah (Muslim school). The purpose for the minaret is much speculated upon. Our guide asserted that the tower was in fact used as a large sundial with 24 crenelated sides, each representing one of the 24 hours in a day. The monuments are an interesting mix of Muslim and Hindu artistry, being as it is a Muslim mosque, built by Hindu workers, and made from the pieces of Jain temples that had stood on the site previously. The carvings on the buildings are beautiful to look at, all done in red sandstone blocks and marble. There are bright green parrots nesting in the walls of the buildings, providing a startling contrast to the russet tones everywhere else. Apparently, Qutub Minar is the second most popular tourist destination for Indians, after the Taj Mahal, so there were lots of people walking the grounds and taking pictures. Still, it was quite peaceful, even with all of the hubbub; I would highly recommend going if you're ever in Delhi.

After our leisurely stroll through Qutub Minar, we set out for Humayun's tomb, which is also in Delhi. We must have serendipitously hit a lull in the crows, for the complex was not crowded when we arrived, nor throughout our visit. As we were leaving, however, four huge bus loads of Asian tourists rolled up, and the grounds were very quickly crowded. The buildings themselves are the attraction here, as well as the lovely gardens and waterways. Each structure is surprisingly empty. The characteristic red and white tomb, which you'll see in the pictures, is nearly empty inside, save three or four family sarcophagi. It seemed to me like a place that should have been lived in, or at least visited, for it is lovely. Heather and I were commenting that it would be nice to come back with a blanket and book, and read in the garden. Here again, there were chartreuse parrots swooping amongst the domes of the tomb and nesting in the walls. Waterways and a reflecting pool lead up to each of the main entrances, with delicate fountains casting droplets into the reflection of the sky - truly peaceful.

Sunday evening began setting in, and we were tuckered out. We headed to Connaught Place with the idea that we would do some shopping. However, the shops were mostly closed because of the day, so we just strolled around and eventually stopped in the N-block to have dinner at Banana Leaf, which offers South Indian food. We had to ask the waiter to define most of what was on the menu, but it was fun to try new things. We ordered dhosa, uthappam, and one other dish that I don't recall the name of, and topped it off with sweet-salt Lassi. Replete with fried goodness, we headed for home, only to get a guilt trip from our cook, Abdul, for delaying dinner with our flatmates - enter more snacks, just to compensate for our tardiness, of course.

All in all, a fun and fairly productive Sunday; definitely an enjoyable way to kick off our week. The roomies are planning a get-away for the weekend to Amritsar, which is the seat of the Sikh faith, so I should have many adventures to report shortly. Even with a concierge to help us in the office, just making reservations for Indian trains, hotels and flights is an adventure in and of itself. This weekend is Ms. Heather's birthday, so it's nice to have something to look forward to, for all of us. I am so lucky to have other ex-pats to spend time with, especially those who are so entertaining and such great conversationalists.
Humayun's Tomb

Qutub Minar

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